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| A place to leave your heart |
A week ago today, we rolled out of bed at 3:30 a.m., bleary-eyed yet excited for an early-morning flight and a four-day weekend in San Francisco and its environs.
We planned the trip with the intention of attending a cousins' reunion with Lori's side of the family but when that failed to materialize, we found ourselves with even more time to spend as we wished. What follows is a quick synopsis of our Friday-to-Monday adventures, presented by the letter F.
What I mean to say is, when I think about the themes that framed our visit, I think of: friends, family, food and football. So let's begin:
Friends: We flew into San Jose, and spent two days and two nights with Lori's lifelong best friend, Terry, and her husband Mike in San Francisco. Lori and Terry grew up on the same block and went through school together, from kindergarten through high school, including an all-girls Catholic high school. Terry moved into her parents' house after their deaths and has fixed it up beautifully -- a two-story rowhouse in the Sunset district near Lake Merced and San Francisco State University.
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| Mercy High School, Class of 1970: Lori, Lin & Terry |
Terry and Mike introduced us to the
Filbert Street Stairs (See? Another "F.") on Saturday morning. I had no idea you could walk from the Embarcadero up the hillside to
Coit Tower, the famous landmark on Telegraph Hill, by following a series of staircases through well-maintained natural areas featuring all sorts of leafy plants, trees, flowers and well-hidden apartments. Inside Coit Tower, we viewed Depression-era murals in the lobby of the building, all done in fresco style. An amazing achievement that has stood the test of nearly 80 years.
We had dinner out Friday night at the legendary
Cliff House, overlooking the Pacific Ocean, and ate in Saturday night as Lin, another longtime friend of Lori and Terry, joined us after attending the 49ers' playoff game. Pull out an old yearbook and that's a surefire way of laughing your way through the evening.
On Sunday morning, we met one of
my high school friends, Diane, and her husband Steve for breakfast at a nearly century-old cafe near the world-famous intersection of Haight and Ashbury. It was the
Pork Store Cafe, which began life in 1916 as a butcher shop founded by an immigrant couple from Czechoslovakia. We had delicious food in an unpretentious atmosphere and enjoyed great conversation with Diane and Steve, who live in Berkeley.
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| Steve & Diane on Haight Street |
The Haight has changed in some ways. It's been cleaned up considerably and lots of upscale businesses have moved in alongside the head shops, thrift stores and record shops that still survive. A few blocks west of the restaurant there was a Whole Foods store on one corner and a McDonald's on the opposite corner.Talk about economic transition.
Yet there were reminders of the old Haight: A sketchy customer fired up a fragrant doobie while he and friends waited for a table at the Pork Store Cafe. Another character came ambling by on the sidewalk, playing the banjo and seemingly in no hurry to get anywhere. And just as we were getting into our car to leave, a disheveled woman came up to the passenger-side window and started screaming at Lori for no particular reason.
Family: The visit actually began in Fremont, (Yep. Another "F.") the East Bay community where I lived from fifth grade through my first two years of college. We visited my mom, who lives alone in a ranch-style tract home; took her out to see a resale shop where she hopes to sell many of her vintage clothing items on consignment; and brought home fast-food for a lunch in her kitchen. She uses a walker, tires easily and doesn't go out much, so I think we made the most of our time with her. There's no room for guests, so we said goodbye in the late afternoon and headed to Terry and Mike's.
Leaving San Francisco at mid-day Sunday, we paid a visit to the cemetery where Lori's parents are buried. We left fresh flowers and cleaned up the gravestone. A small gesture, yes, but one that I know meant a lot to Lori. Her parents were always very good to me. I'm fortunate to still have both my mom and dad, though they divorced long ago and live in different states.
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| Lori, Bob & Darlene |
We arrived in the San Jose/South Bay area about mid-afternoon and settled in for two days and two nights with Lori's older brother, Bob, and his wife Darlene. Their daughter, our niece Joanna, a lawyer who lives in San Francisco, was there to greet us along with her rescue dog, Francine. Bob and Darlene live in the mountains between Los Gatos and Santa Cruz, just off the notoriously winding road known as Highway 17. They have solitude like you wouldn't believe and a spectacular view of the tree-topped hillside that rolls toward the ocean.
Played Trivial Pursuit Sunday night, made a quick trip to Santa Cruz Monday afternoon (in some ways a smaller version of the Haight, with its mix of hippies, yuppies and tourists), then went into Los Gatos for happy hour before, finally, heading to the airport in San Jose. All in all, a very relaxing time.
Food: What can I say? We ate well everywhere we went. From the simplest meal (my mom fixed us homemade pinto beans, fried eggs and tortillas for a late breakfast) to the fanciest (an impressive seafood with pasta dish at the Cliff Houae), there was ample opportunity to get our fill and then some.
Terri fixed a killer rack of lamb. Bob and Darlene served us barbecued pork chops with great side dishes for dinner and a platter full of linguica and sausage for breakfast the following day. And the chorizo scramble with hash browns was just the right dish (for me, anyway) at the Pork Store Cafe.
Football: It was a stroke of luck that we were in The City the same weekend that the 49ers (or, to get another "F" reference in here, the Forty-Niners) had their first playoff game since 2002. The 10-year absence from the playoffs had fans in a fever pitch, with 49er garb, flags and banners everywhere. Fans of the franchise that has won 5 Super Bowls in 5 tries weren't accustomed to such a long dry spell. It's been 17 years since the Niners' last Super Bowl appearance.
We watched Saturday's game with Mike and Terry in the comfort of their living room. As the tension rose with four lead changes in the final four minutes, we joined countless others on the edge of their seats, their hearts pounding and fingers crossed for an improbable ending. When the victory came, -- a 36-32 classic against the favored New Orleans Saints -- we screamed as if we were at Candlestick Park.
A few hours later, we re-lived the drama through Lin, a season ticket holder, who was still jacked up when she arrived at Terry and Mike's for dinner. She came decked out in a bright red jacket adorned with various sports pins, wearing a pair of 49er earrings, a football charm bracelet and a satisfied smile.
Lin will be there again on Sunday, when the Niners take on the dangerous New York Giants for a berth in this year's Super Bowl. Let's hope she -- and we -- have reason to keep smiling.
Photograph of Golden Gate Bridge: http://mcmanuslab.ucsf.edu/SF